The last time I could find them all, I counted 18
accessories for my tablesaw. Dado set, push
sticks, throat plates, extra blades, miter gauges,
tenoning jig, wrenches, etc.—they’re all essential and
they were all over the place. The problem is finding a
convenient, central place to put them that’s out of the
way yet accessible.
I came up with a cabinet that fits in the underutilized
space below my saw’s extension table. It has two deep
drawers for plenty of storage. The full-extension slides
and stepped sides allow you to see and grab what you
need without digging through stuff. Adjustable shelves
on the side hold the rip fence, extra miter gauge and
whatever else you can pile on them. The overall design is
flexible and open-ended, so you can add extra holders
and pegs wherever you need them. I made this cabinet
to fit my tablesaw, but it can easily be modified to fit
most other brands.
Assemble the cabinet box
Cut the parts from the two sheets of
plywood (Fig. B, page 68). Add the
1/4-in. hardwood edging (G). Screw
the cabinet sides (B, D) and back (C)
to the bottom (A) (Photo 1; Fig. A,
page 68). Attach the top with screws.
Build the drawer boxes
Set up the drawer pieces (H
through L), clamp and fasten them
with screws (Fig. A). Add hardwood
Attach and adjust the drawer slides
Full-extension drawer slides are a
must to access the drawer’s contents
(see Sources, page 70). The slides consist
of two parts: a cabinet member and
a drawer member.
Attach the cabinet members flush
with the front edge of the cabinet
(Photo 2). Use a 14-1/2-in. spacer for
the upper slides and a 3/4-in. spacer
to set the bottom cabinet members.
To set the drawer members, align
the 3/4-in. spacer block flush with the
bottom edge of the drawer side. Set
the drawer member on the spacer
flush with the front and screw it to the
Complete the drawers
Nail hardwood edging to the sides
and top of the drawer faces (M). Set the
drawers in the cabinet. Align the faces
to the drawers and fasten with 1-in.
brads or double-faced tape. Open the
drawers, and screw the faces to the
drawer boxes from inside.
Install the handles (see Sources).
Add a peg (R) to the top drawer face
for hanging a push stick.
Add shelves and custom storage
Attach the shelf standards (see
Sources) to the cabinet side. Snap
shelf supports in place and screw on
I used leftover plywood to make a
scrap bin for the bottom shelf. Fasten
a bracket (N, P, Fig. A) on the left side of the cabinet for your miter gauge.
Mount it as low as possible to avoid
interfering with the operation of
the blade-tilt handwheel. Add other
holders—a peg for the arbor
wrench, for example—as needed.
I fashioned a blade holder (Q, Fig.
A) from a 2-ft. length of 2x6 (Photo
3). Lower the blade completely and
clamp the 2x6 to the rip fence. Set
the fence at 13/16 in. Start the saw
and slowly raise the blade until it
barely breaks through the 2x6. Lower
the blade completely, move the fence
over 15/16 in. and repeat the
process. Continue until you have
Remove the 2x6 and cut the holder
to fit the width of the drawer. Set
the holder in the drawer and secure
it with screws from the bottom.
Finally, tip the cabinet on its back
and attach the wheels. Use 3-in.
locking swivel casters in the front
and fixed casters in the back. Screw
the casters in flush with the left edge
and 6-in. in from the right edge.
Fig. A: Exploded View
Fig. B: Plywood Cutting Diagram
Click any image to view a larger version.
Drawers: Deep, open-sided full-extension
drawers provide easy access and
Brackets: Dowels and a bracket
keep everyday accessories
right at hand.
Shelves: Adjustable shelves
store accessories that
don’t easily fit in the
drawers. There’s even
a bin for storing offcuts
you simply can’t
bear to throw away.
1. Assemble the cabinet with butt joints and screws.
2. Spacer boards make it easy to
install the drawer slides in the cabinet.
The 3/4-in. spacer is also used to
position the drawer members up from
the bottom edge of the drawers.
3. Make the blade holder on your tablesaw. Cut a series of blade-shaped slots in a
clamped-on 2x6 by slowly raising the blade until it just breaks through the top.