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Dutchman on a budget

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 Since I don't have a router inlay kit, but still needed to make a few dutchman style patches for a table i made,  I went "old school'.       I made a patch to fit the area I needed to cover from some 1/8" thick scraps of the same wood as the top.  I then marked out where the patch would be on the top with a ball-point pen.      I then used a sharp chisel, and by  counting the number of "hits"  at each spot ( four, I think was the number) I went around the marked out area.     Once all of the lines had been "hit", I then used the chisel, bevel down, to pop the waste out.    By test fitting the patch for a tight fit, I could pare out just enough for the fit.     Some glue, and a few taps from a hammer, patch was in place.   After the glue was dry, a hand plane smoothed thing out.     Now, the wood in those patches doesn't HAVE to match the wood it sits in, one could always highlight those patches with some showy design.    The patches for that TV Table had to cover old carriage bolt holes, as the wood ( redwood)  USED to be a Pic-nic table.   Reclaim, re-use, and recycle.


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Comments

Steve Newman wrote re: Dutchman on a budget
on 11-16-2010 12:46 PM

 To see a picture of those Dutchmans, go to the blog about a Pic-nic table.   As for the chisel work, I set the bevel towards the waste side of the area.  This will cause a slight back-cut, back that back-cut will capture some of the glue squeeze-out.   I also chop down in the waste area, just like you would do when mortising out for a hinge.   Same number of hits, move a little, repeat the hits.   Makes things easier to remove.   Once most of the waste is gone, I can use those marks from the hits to make things level inside.   I just pare, with the bevel down, until all the hit-lines are gone.  A test-fit, followed by any more chisel work ( if needed) and fit again.   It does not have to be flush with the surrounding surface, that is where the handplane takes over, after the glue has dried.