High-quality socket chisels—
such as the Stanley Sweathearts and Lie-
Nielsens—are making a big comeback. Why
would these companies choose the socket
style? Well, it’s all about you, the user. If
you’re not satisfi ed with a handle’s shape,
you can change it. If you want a diff erent
wood—no problem. Th e handle of a socket
chisel isn’t glued or fastened to the tool, so
you just remove it and make your own.
Truth is, woodworkers have been
doing this for years. In the age before
plastics, when a wood handle on a socket
chisel split or mushroomed, replacing it
was easy. But not all were fixed. Today,
there are loads of wonderful old socket
chisels going for a song, merely because
they have busted or missing handles.
I’m a turner with a thing about handles—
I just love making them. Screwdrivers, awls,
ice cream scoops: If it’s got a handle, I’ve got
to make my own.
When I first turned handles for socket
chisels, I would make a few crude measurements
of the socket and just go at it. If the
taper on the handle’s shank wasn’t quite
right, I guessed where it was off and tried
again. While this method works OK, I’ve
since found a measuring system that’s much
more reliable. Following these steps, your
shank should fit tight right away.
First, turn a cylinder that’s an inch or two
longer than the length of the handle you’re
going to make (of course, the full length
includes the shank). Th e narrow end of the
shank will most likely be a small diameter
(anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8"), so I prefer
using a cone-shaped revolving center in the
lathe’s tailstock. Th is gives me more room to
maneuver the parting tool when cutting the
Measure the socket
Start by wrapping a small piece of notebook paper around
a pencil, forming a cylinder (Photo 1). Push the cylinder
all the way down into the chisel’s socket (Photo 2) and let
the paper unroll into a cone. (You may have to help it a little
bit.) Once the paper has fully conformed to the socket’s
taper, put a couple of pieces of tape on the paper, to hold
its shape. Th en draw a line on the cone, following the top
of the chisel’s socket (Photo 3). Remove the cone—you’re
all set to take three measurements.
First, set a divider to the distance between the pencil
mark you made and the end of the cone (Photo 4). Transfer
that distance to the handle blank (Photo 5). Second,
set a caliper to the diameter of the cone at the pencil mark
(Photo 6). Turn the blank to this diameter, immediately
to the right of the mark indicating the shank’s length
(Photo 7). (I fi nd it easier to do this if I start roughing out
the shank at the same time.) Th ird, reset the caliper to
the diameter of the cone’s end (Photo 8). Turn the end of
the shank to this diameter (Photo 9), then form a straight
taper up to the end of the shank.
Test the fit
If all has gone well, the shank should perfectly fi t the
socket. Just to be sure, perform a simple test. Rub a piece
of chalk on the inside of the socket (Photo 10). Turn off
the lathe, pull away the headstock and push the socket
onto the shank. Twist the chisel a few times and remove
it (Photo 11). If the fi t is correct, most of the shank will
be coated with chalk; if it’s not, the chalk will show you
the high spots that need to be removed. If the fi t is too
loose, your best bet is to cut off part of the shank and
start over from the beginning. Don’t worry—the turning
goes pretty quick.
Once the fi t is OK, lengthen the shank by about 1/8"
(Photo 12). (Notice the small gap between the end of the
socket and the end of the shank on the handles shown on
page 30.) Th is gap allows you to drive the shank tight into
the socket. Th e end of the handle shouldn’t butt up against
the top of the socket. If it does, the handle could split when
you strike the chisel.
Turn the handle to any shape you wish (Photo 13). Th ere’s
really no right or wrong here; traditionally, chisel handles
came in many diff erent shapes and sizes. If your work
requires you to strike the chisel hard, you may want to put a
ferrule on one or both ends of the handle to prevent it from
splitting. Turn off the lathe from time to time and test how
the handle feels. When you’re done, part off (Photo 14). To
install your handle, just drive it into the socket with a mallet.
With a tight fi t, there’s no need for glue. When you apply fi nish
to the handle, don’t put any on the shank. If the shank is
too slippery, it won’t stay seated in the socket.
This story originally appeared in American Woodworker February/March 2012, issue #158.
Click any image to view a larger version.
1. Chisel sockets come in many different sizes, so you’ll need to take
some measurements before turning the handle. Start by cutting a
piece of notebook paper about 4” square. Roll it up around a pencil.
2. Push the paper cylinder all the way into the chisel’s socket. Let
go of the paper—it will unroll to form a cone. The cone will be
exactly the same shape as the socket.
3. Stick one or two pieces of tape on the cone to hold its shape.
Mark the cone at the end of the socket. Remove the cone from
4. Set a divider to the distance between the pencil mark and the
end of the cone.
5. Mark this distance from the tailstock end of a blank you’ve
6. Set a caliper to fit the cone at the mark you drew at the end of
the chisel’s socket. This will be the major diameter of the handle’s
shank (the part that fits into the socket).
7. Turn the blank to the major diameter, just to the right of the
pencil line. Rough out the rest of the shank’s taper.
8. Reset the caliper to fit the end of the cone. This will be the shank’s
9. Turn the end of the shank to the minor diameter, leaning the
parting tool at about the same angle as the rough taper. Cut a
straight taper between the major and minor diameters.
10. Check the fit of the shank in the chisel’s socket. First, coat the
inside of the socket with chalk dust. Then turn off the lathe and
pull away the tailstock.
11. Push the socket onto the shank and twist it a few times. If its
taper is correct, the full length of the shank will be coated with
chalk. If it’s not correct, only the high spots will be coated.
12. Once the taper is correct, lengthen the shank about 1/8" to
13. Shape the rest of the handle as you wish. Stop the lathe and
remove the handle from time to time to test how it feels.
14. Part the handle from the blank using a spindle gouge. (My
gouge is very short, from turning so many handles!)