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  • Tablesaw Jig Clamp

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    I added this hold-down to my tablesaw's sliding cutoff jig and find it a great convenience, because the height of the clamp is easily changed. This clamp uses a standard bar-type caulking gun, cut in half, as shown. The mounting block slides to apply...
  • Long-Reach Stop for Crosscut Sled

    by Tim Johnson     Sunday, February 22, 2009
    I built the “Ultimate Crosscut Sled” featured in AW #75 (October 1999). It works great, and recently I've added an adjustable stop, which makes it even better. I thought other AW readers would be interested in my upgrade. My 50-in.-capacity...
  • Capture Tablesaw Dust

    by American Woodworker Editors     Monday, November 9, 2009
    My contractor-style tablesaw spewed sawdust everywhere until I enclosed the base by covering all the openings with 1/4-in. MDF panels. First, I added two aluminum angle rails so the collection box slopes toward the dust port in the back panel. Then I...
  • Adjustable Miter-Saw Stop

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    This handy stop grips tightly and is easy to adjust, so you can lock in crosscuts. A spacer the same thickness as the saw's auxiliary fence is the key. Sandwiched between the two clamp faces, this spacer makes the stop fit the fence perfectly. Sandpaper...
  • Q & A: Silencing a Squeaky Tablesaw

    by American Woodworker Editors     Tuesday, August 27, 2013
    Q & A: Silencing a Squeaky Tablesaw Q: My tablesaw screeches like nails on a chalkboard whenever I adjust the blade.WD-40 made the noise go away for a while, but now it’s back. What do I do? A: That sound can drive you crazy! It’s a clear...
  • AW Extra 4/12/12 - Large Sheet Crosscutting

    by AW-Editor     Tuesday, February 26, 2008
    Large Sheet Crosscutting Crosscutting large sheets of plywood on the tablesaw can be difficult, and I usually end up binding the blade, burning the wood, or worse. To get around this, I clamp a board under the plywood and use it as an auxiliary fence...
  • Raised-Panel Tablesaw Jig

    by AW-Editor     Monday, September 1, 2008
    Raised-Panel Tablesaw Jig By Pat Hunter Click the image to view a larger version. Rather than buy a set of raised-panel router bits, I use this tall fence on my tablesaw. It's simply a plywood box that slides on the rip fence. I use two bar clamps...
  • Tablesaw Template Trick

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    A simple addition to my tablesaw fence allows me to cut dozens of identical odd-angled shapes in a hurry. It works just like a flush-cutting router bit. The auxiliary fence's ledge is exactly lined up with the blade's outer edge. I use double...
  • AW Extra 11/14/13 - Perfectly Parallel Fence

    by American Woodworker Editors     Tuesday, November 12, 2013
    Perfectly Parallel Fence Here’s a quick and easy way to align your tablesaw fence with your miter slot.Plane down a board until it fits into your miter slot without play. Now slide the fence up to the board and use a feeler gauge to determine your...
  • Let Horses Carry the Load

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    Trying to rip sheet stock single-handedly while standing 8 ft. behind the saw is no picnic. A pair of horses the same height as your saw table carry the load and leave a path so you can easily guide the sheet from start to finish. Used beside the saw...
  • More Visible Scrolling

    by American Woodworker Editors     Thursday, July 22, 2010
    A scrollsaw blade can be tough to see as it goes up and down 1,000 times or more per minute. This can make it hard to follow your line. An easy solution is to spray paint the blades a bright color.
  • Handy Blast Gate Lever

    by Tom Caspar     Friday, February 20, 2009
    Reaching down to open and close my tablesaw's blast gate was a real pain until I built this pivoting mechanical arm from pieces of 1/8-in. flat steel and 3/8-in. rod. It may look cobbled together, but it works great. I drilled holes, fastened the...
  • Zero Clearance Dust Port

    by American Woodworker Editors     Tuesday, June 30, 2009
    Zero clearance inserts are wonderful for eliminating tearout, but unfortunately, they also impede dust collection. To give my collection system an opening to pull sawdust through, I cut a 1/2-in.-dia. hole at the front end of the blade slot. In this location...
  • Clamp-Free Rip Fence

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    After years of fumbling with clamps, I decided there must be a better way to attach featherboards to my tablesaw's rip fence. Two T-tracks screwed to the fence allow me to mount a piece of plywood with a side-mounted track for attaching featherboards...
  • Economical Inserts

    by AW-Editor     Thursday, January 29, 2009
    Commercially made zero-clearance inserts cost about $20. I make my own for less than $3 from 3/8-in.-thick polyethylene cutting boards, which are flat and rigid. A 14-in. x 17-in. cutting board ($10 at a discount department store) yields four inserts...