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Restoring A Drop-Leaf Table 2


After removing the top from this table, I discovered more signs of the hand of the maker.



The cross-brace under the top is dovetailed into the sides. Again, overcuts reveal the way the joints were made.


The corners were reinforced with the customary long-grain blocks. Typically, the bottom ends of these blocks are chamfered, so one wouldn't feel any sharp edges underneath the table.

Here, though, the top edges are chamfered, too. I've done this too, on occasion, to avoid tearing out the block's end grain when leveling the rails and legs with a plane. Could this be why they're chamfered?


The pockets that hold the screws for fastening the top show clear signs of being carved with a gouge.



Here's a better shot of the knuckle joints, showing the overcuts.


The top of this table is made from one board. After years of being scrubbed clean, it has warped quite badly. After unscrewing the base, the warp became even more pronounced.

The heart side of this board faces up, so this warp is clearly not a result of the natural tendency of a board to cup. Natural cups always go the other way, with the heart side becoming convex, not concave.

I'd like to remove the warp without damaging the integrity of the top. I've got a few ideas, but I'd appreciate hearing your comments. If you have any comments or questions, please scroll all the way down to the bottom of this page, below the ads.



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