Plane both faces of the sides and backboards so they’re 3/4-in. thick (Photo 4). Congratulations if you’ve removed all the low spots, but don’t hang your head if you haven’t. You can plane all the boards thinner, down to 5/8 in., if that’s what it takes. Remove all the mill marks by sanding with 100- and 120-grit paper.

Here’s how to use the crosscut sled to trim the top and lower sides until they mate: First, saw off 1/4 in. from the bottom of both upper sides. This guarantees the bottoms are square and straight, leaving a 1-in.-deep notch. Then trim the tongues of the lower sides until they fit the notches. Because the middle boards (B and F) are exactly the same width, everything should fit tight as a glove.

Finish the lower sides by sawing the cutout at the bottom (Fig. E). It’s easier to use a jigsaw than be a hero and try to balance the board on the small table of a bandsaw. Make a pattern of your baseboard molding and cut out the back corner of the side so it will fit tight up against the wall. (For more on custom-fitting cabinets, see AW #78, February 2000, page 56.)

Lay out the positions of the shelves on both the upper and lower sides (Fig. B). The shelves will be set in from the back of the sides by the thickness of the backboards. Draw this backboard layout line on the sides, too (Photo 6).

Glue up the shelves, thickness and sand them, then rout the molding on their front edges (Fig. D). Trim them to length with the crosscut sled. Finally, lay out center marks for the biscuits on the bottom faces.

Now for the easy joinery. Cut biscuit slots in the sides and shelves at the same time (Photos 5 and 6). Use a framing square to make sure the shelves are clamped in the right place.

PLANE THE GLUED-UP CASE SIDES until there are no low spots left. All the parts of this bookcase should be the same thickness, which can be anywhere from 3/4 in. to a minimum of 5/8 in.

CUT BISCUIT SLOTS in the ends of the shelves. You can’t go wrong if you clamp each shelf in position, right above the double lines. Set the shelf in from the back edge by the thickness of one backboard.

Do you buy lumber at a home center?
Go ahead and buy pre-thicknessed 3/4-in. boards. Our plans work fine with this time-saving wood or with No. 1 Common rough lumber.

Biscuit Placement
#20 biscuits are plenty strong to hold a shelf’s weight. They won’t shear off under a load because the grain of a biscuit runs diagonally.

Detail of Bottom Cutout
Scribe the back of your bookcase to fit around your baseboard molding. The back of the bookcase should fit tight against the wall so the bookcase can be firmly anchored.

CUT MORE BISCUIT SLOTS in the case side. Stand the plate joiner up on end and butt it against the end of the shelf. Align the center mark on the bottom of the machine with the pencil mark on the bottom of the shelf.

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Two-Part Bookcase • Exploded View of Bookcase
Preparing & Gluing • Milling The Sides & Shelves
Fitting The Backboards & Final Assembly