Farm Table, September 2000

DRILL THE LEGS. Use a shop-made 1/2-in.-thick spacer in the BeadLOCK jig to locate the holes properly. A drill press works great for this operation. It’s easier, faster and more accurate than drilling by hand.

GLUE THE LONG SIDES FIRST. Avoid a twisted glue-up by clamping the legs flat to the MDF before you tighten the pipe clamps.Use a spacer to keep the apron from sagging under the weight.

APPLY A TOURNIQUET to square the base after final assembly. Do this before the glue sets. Shorten the longer side by adding tension until both diagonals measure the same.

DRILL THE APRONS from the end so you can be sure the holes go in straight. If the holes aren’t straight, the tenons will be angled and the joint won’t fit. Center the drill on your body and sight down the apron while drilling.

PLANE THE APRONS flush with the top of the legs, working from each end to the center. It’s OK to leave the apron slightly crowned at its center, so the top doesn’t appear to sag.

TWO SHORT BLOCKS reinforce each joint. The upper blocks leave room for top fasteners. The lower blocks extend and serve as stops for the half-round detail.

DON'T ASK! Somehow I drilled holes in the wrong leg face.

FIT AND GLUE PATCHES into the holes so that their grain matches the grain direction of the legs. Then plane or sand them flush. Glue a block on top, slightly wider than the leg. If you match the end grain, the face grain on the repair will match the rest of the leg. After gluing, plane the sides of the block flush with the leg.

SAW OFF THE WASTE, leaving a fresh face of thick veneer. Make two passes, one from each direction, with the blade set at half depth. Then trim the ends of the veneer and plane or sand the surface. No one will ever know!

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Farm Table Exploded View of Farm Table
What It Takes To Build & Choosing and Using Your Lumber
Steps 4-8 Steps 9-12 Steps 13-18
Steps 19-22 Steps 23-26

Feature Article • Farm Table • October 2000
© 2000 American Woodworker Magazine®