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1. First, build the auxiliary fence (Photo 3) and make the centering and height boards (opposite page) that you’ll use to set the location of the fence. 2. Find top-dead-center of the blade using the centering board and height board (Photo 1). It’s important that the fence be located over top-dead-center so the tongue of the panel is properly shaped to fit the groove in your frames (see Oops!, page 40). This is difficult on many tablesaws because the blade actually swings forward as it is raised. You need to find top-dead-center at the maximum height to which you will be raising the blade, because that height will give you the profile you want. 3. Transfer the location of top-dead-center to your zero-clearance insert (Photo 2). Raise your blade through the zero-clearance insert if you haven’t already. 4. Position the fence on the tablesaw so it covers the front half of
the blade, where the teeth point down toward the table (Photo 3).
The blade must be down. Use your miter gauge to set the fence at 35 degrees.
The edge of the fence must be directly over the intersection of the blade
kerf and the top-dead-center line on the insert (see right). Clamp the
fence securely to the saw, and you’re ready to make a panel. |
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Coved
Doors On The Tablesaw • What You Need •
Set Up Your Saw
Project of the Month: Coved Doors On The Tablesaw • September 2002 |