Now that your fence is set, it’s time to actually cut the panels. Here’s the process:

1. Raise the blade 1/16-in. above the surface of the tablesaw and cut the end-grain of the panel (Photo 4). Note that the panel is being pushed “uphill” against the fence. Cut the long grain and repeat the process on the other side of the panel.

2. Increase the height of the blade 1/16 in. and make another pass on all four edges of both faces, end grain first. Now the back of the panel is complete (Photo 5).

3. Finish the front of the panel by continuing to raise the blade 1/16 in. per pass. Use test cuts on the scrap piece to monitor your progress. It will take about six passes to complete the profile on the front.

4. Measure the thickness of the panel tongue (Photo 7). Leave it 1/32-in. thicker than the groove in the frame to allow for sanding. Dial calipers are an accurate and convenient way to take this measurement.

 

 

Always machine the end grain first, using a push block to hold the panel. The blade should only protrude 1/16-in. above the table. Cut all four edges of both sides of the panel twice, taking off no more than 1/16 in. at a time.

 

This is how the edge should look after two passes front and back. At this point the coved profile on the back of the panel is complete, so mark which sides of the panels you want to be the front and back.

 
 

It will take approximately six passes in all on the front of the panel to achieve the final shape. Stop cutting when the edge of the panel (the tongue) is the correct thickness (Photo 7).

 
 

Measure the edge of the panel carefully. To allow for sanding, it should be 1/32-in. thicker than the groove in the frame.


Coved Doors On The TablesawWhat You NeedSet Up Your Saw
Cut The Coved Profile • Sand The Profile
Imagine The Possibilities & Sources

Project of the Month: Coved Doors On The Tablesaw • September 2002
© 2002 American Woodworker Magazine®