To sand the saw scratches out of the profile without spoiling its shape and crisp edges, you need a sanding block that’s made to fit the profile. An easy way to do this is with Bondo-type auto-body filler (Photo 8).

When you sand the profile, start with 80-grit sandpaper and move up to 220 grit. When the panel is fully sanded, it should easily slip into the door frame without rattling around inside it.

 

Make a sanding block that’s the exact shape of your coved profile. Mix auto-body filler and pack it into the cove, with a layer of wax paper over the wood to prevent it from sticking. A piece of scrap creates a dam to hold the filler in place.

 
 

Add a handle to the sanding block while the filler is wet. This makes it a lot easier to hold the block when you’re sanding. When dry, the filler creates a sanding block perfectly formed to the cove.

 

Attach sandpaper to the sanding block. Self-adhesive sheets are the easiest, but you can also use self-adhesive discs, cut in half.

 
 

Sand the cove, starting with 80-grit sandpaper and moving up to 220 grit. Every so often, check the fit of the panel, to be sure you’re not making the tongue too thin.

 


Coved Doors On The TablesawWhat You NeedSet Up Your Saw
Cut The Coved Profile • Sand The Profile
Imagine The Possibilities & Sources

Project of the Month: Coved Doors On The Tablesaw • September 2002
© 2002 American Woodworker Magazine®