Now that you understand the technique, the possibilities are limitless.
The look of the cove changes with every change of blade diameter and fence
angle.
• Raise the blade in small increments; 1/16 in. at a time. Light passes
make these cuts easier on your saw and provide the smoothest surface.
• Have on hand an extra panel, of the same dimensions and thickness as
your good ones. Use this for test cuts as you machine the panel.
We learned the hard way that setting up the fence carefully is essential.
If the auxiliary fence is located behind the center of the blade, you’ll
get a profile that gets thicker right at the edge. This won’t fit
into the groove worth a darn. Use the setup procedure we show, and you’ll
be sure you’ve set the fence at the top-dead-center of the blade.
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10-IN. BLADE AT 35 DEGREES
This is the profile we show in the step-by-step photos. It’s a particularly
useful profile for 3/4-in.-thick panels in standard cabinet door frames.
10-IN. BLADE AT 90 DEGREES
This gives you a wider profile that’s appropriate for large doors. It
has the same profile on the back of the panel as the panel shown above.
COVE ON FRONT ONLY
Instead of relieving the panel back, you can take all the material off
the front. This will leave the panel face proud of the door frame. The
profile shown here was made by a 10-in. blade and a 35-degree fence.
8-IN. BLADE AT 35 DEGREES
This gives you a smaller profile, appropriate for small doors and boxes.
This cut was made using an 8-in. blade from a dado set.
Special thanks to the folks at Amana and Freud for their assistance
with this story.
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Auto Body Filler
Auto parts stores
$7/quart
Fractional dial caliper
Part #06.50.08; $37.
Highland Hardware
(800) 241-6748
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Self adhesive sandpaper, 6" discs; $4
Home Centers
Push Block; $16.
Woodworker's Supply
(800) 645-9292
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